With experience working in the Menswear Manufacturing factory for over 31 years. There are 9 features about our bespoke tailoring made suits. Sometimes many people thought only the fabric is cut individually based on different measurements and posture types. It is far away from luxury bespoke suits. It must include 9 following features as below:
1. Create Paper Pattern By Hand.
When tailors pick up one production sheet, the first step, tailors will prepare one big piece of thicker yellow paper from rolls of papers. Then he will start to analyze the client’s over 40 measurement dates and also the posture pictures in his brain. He will judge and decide some most important finish measurements such as Chest, Mid Waist, Hip, Armhole, Bicep, Forearm, and Crotch, etc. He will use a pencil to draft out the outline of the pattern in the yellow thick paper. Then, cut the paper into different parts pieces.
2. Cut Each Fabric by Hand.
Based on the first step pieces of outlines paper patterns, our tailor will put each paper piece on the shell cloth. During this process, it can’t be put randomly always. Because our tailors have to consider to cut the fabric about the stripe and the check pattern matching, especially at the lapel, the collar, the pockets, the back combination or joint parts.
3. The Interior Horse Hair Canvas is Hand Crafted.
This part is the most time-consuming part of the whole manufacturing process. Good talent tailors always stitch the canvas intensively by hand one stitch by one stitch each line. Not like bulk production, use a machine to sew some lines inside to combine the canvas.
4. The Lapel Canvas is Hand Crafted.
Same as the interior canvas, it is always stitched by hand. And there are darts under the lapels. The hand stitches are easily seen there.
5. All Designs are made into different Styles.
The front style, the lapel, the sleeves, the back style, the breast pocket, the lower pockets, the inside card pockets, pen pocket, the inside chest pocket all styles can be different as the client’s preferences. Normally pockets are put at the most proper position matching to the stripe or the window pattern, as high standards it mush look seamless.
6. The edge stitches are handmade and finished.
The picked stitches are put at the edge of front panels, the lapel, collar, pockets flap, inside lining on a jacket, and the side pockets, outseams, the zipper on pants. The colors of stitches can be different into matching the shell cloth or specific color red, yellow, royal, etc. Besides, the stitches distance from the edge can be different at 1/16 inch, 1/8 inch, 1/4 inch, 3/8 inch.
7. All Buttonholes are Handmade.
Normal buttonholes are handmade, there aren’t machine-made buttonholes. Milanese buttonhole on the left side lapel is one light spot.
8. Use High-Temperature Steam to iron the finish suits with Good Shape.
Mostly wool fabric is always easily caused by some wrinkles in the sewing process, so it needs to be shaped gently, especially the velvet cloth needs to be paid much more attention.
9. Check All Parts Measurements as Each Pattern Guide.
Strickly the allowable range can’t exceed 0.25 inch. The sleeve length, the jacket front, and back length, Chest, Mid-waist, Hip, the button stance.
Besides, the good wool fabric such as Dormeuil, Holland&Sherry, Zegna, Currti 1881, it can be basic considition with much better touch feeling. The good quality accessory like buttons, stitches, canvas can help to reach higher level of the entire effect.
Conclusion
Not every suit can be called a real bespoke made a suit. That’s difference what our tailors are making in their life over 30 years. No matter how quickly bulk production suits in the market, our tailors just insist to do the best tailoring work suit.
If any interests, you can find us by Email: info@worldoftailor.com.
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